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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. But, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.