Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
